Since this website debuted, there have been several changes with kayaks. First is the number of kayaks suitable for self-support. Though most creek and river running kayaks of yesteryear had ample room for self-support gear, not all had good access to that space. Some were damned near impossible to load properly. The opening between the seat and bottom of the cockpit rim was short enough that long skinny drybags, or series of smaller bags had to be used to get the gear in. This resulted in the gear being strung out along the entire length of the stern rather than being concentrated near the seat where it would have the least effect on the boats handling. That said, nearly all the creek and river running boats of today have plenty of access space.

Secondly, the once highly regarded European boats, that were the favorites of many self-supporters due to their lack of stern pillars, ease of loading, and reknowned durability are either gone or not readily available. Sadly, Eskimo kayaks went out of business several years ago and Prijon doesn't have the retail presence it once did in the U.S. That said, International Kayak Supply is the new U.S. Prijon distributor and is working on better availability for what looks like some fantastic designs.

Lastly, being that self-supporting the Grand Canyon has gained popularity, there's now a new breed of kayak available being called "crossover designs". Their long length, retractable skegs, and stern hatches make them especially suitable for extended trips containing long stretches of flat water between rapids. The cool folks at Liquid Logic kayaks have had a number of successful 12 day Grand Canyon trips in their crossover boats. Pyranha and Jackson also have crossover designs.

Practicing w/ fully loaded Riot Disco.

Though it makes no sense to use a play boat for self-support, it can be done with the gear & techniques talked about here...if the run is favorable & the paddler so inclined. I did it once, on a "class 4-5" run...due in equal parts of meeting a challenge & being silly. It went fine but I haven't had the desire to repeat it. The message here, besides, "don't be a dope", is that the age old notion of needing a huge boat to fit the needed camping kit is not true. As long as you & your gear fall within the recommended weight range, there's plenty of room in today's river runners & creek boats for the typical trip.

Boat Modifications
Even though most kayaks now days are easy enough to load and unload, some paddlers are still tempted to modify the seat and/or stern pillar....or remove the pillar altogether. However, good seat modifications are very time consuming and will void any warranty.... and, if done without structural engineering knowledge, may make the boat unsafe. I do not recommend it. Removing the rear pillar entirely, or cutting it in half is even worse. Do not perform either! Doing so is a surefire way of weakening the kayaks structural integrity.

° kayak mods

General tips

• If in the market for a new boat, and you're concerned with its ability to perform well while loaded, demo with your gear packed in. Depending on the weight of the paddler, and the particular boat, some kayaks will handle the added weight of camping gear better than others. If you can't demo, pay close attention to the manufacturers recommended weight ranges and take in to account the extra weight your gear will add. If you're towards the upper end of the weight range, the boat may take on a number of undesireable handling traits when loaded with gear.
• Self-adhesive velcro placed inside the boat can be used to contain smaller miscellaneous items such as a map case. Place the "hook" half on the boats plastic and the "loop" half on the item you want to carry. Just be aware that these things stand a chance of being lost during a swim. Properly done though, the velcro will hold lighter weight items just fine while paddling and rolling.
• ALWAYS take materials to repair a cracked boat. Click here for further info.