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Considering how light shelter can be these days, the rewards of risking a night of rain or the constant pestering of biting bugs is little. Plus, finding natural shelter isn’t always easy and it shouldn't be expected of those with shelters to pass up otherwise nice camps looking.

This is also a good time to mention the risks involved when sleeping in caves, overhangs, or old cabins. These places are prime habitats for rodents which can carry Hantavirus, a disease transmitted to humans through the inhalation of airborne particles released after the disturbance of dirt or dead vegetation the infected rodents have defecated, urinated, or chewed on. Though rare, Hantavirus is a serious respiratory disease with a sobering mortality rate of 38 percent. And contrary to popular belief, Hantavirus is not primarily confined to the Four Corners area. Every western state has reported cases and more than half of all cases have come from outside the Four Corners region. For more information, visit the Center for Disease Control (CDC) website.

Tents
A good tent will keep you comfortable in nearly any condition. While inside, one can sit up and move around, find reprieve from bugs and stay dry during the worst of storms. As nice as they can be though, many do not give tents serious consideration due to the perceived weight and bulk. However, there are large one-person tents that weigh as little as 1 pound, and two-person tents in the 2 to 2.25 pound range. How can a tent be that light? It's a combination of using a well thought out single wall design and high-tech materials, or more specifically, sil-nylon (siliconized nylon) and Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF), formerly known as Cuben Fiber.

Sil-nylon is a rip stop nylon which, has been impregnated with silicone during the manufacturing process. The result is a waterproof and extremely light material that, unlike standard tent fabrics, is not prone to delaminating over time or soaking up moisture.

Smaller isn’t always lighter. On the left is the older model Henry Shires Cloudburst 2 tent at 2 lbs 3 oz. On the right is what used to a top selling “backpacking” 2 person tent at 3 lbs 8 oz. To further illustrate this, to the far right in the shadows, is a bivy bag w/ no pole or bug netting weighing in at 2 lbs. The moral: Look beyond the corporate conglomerates for the lightest & most innovative shelters.

Advantageous as it is, sil-nylon requires a little more attention than the industry standard materials. While quite strong for its weight, it’s not bomb-proof. It is also annoyingly slick making it difficult to keep the sleeping bag from sliding around. And, the silicone attracts sand like a magnet does metal.

Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF) is a more recent, and exotic shelter material. Most commonly used for yacht and other sails, not only is DCF lighter than sil-nylon, it is stronger. It also does not have the annoying slipperyness sil-nylon has nor does it stretch when wet, or attract sand. Not surprisingly, it is considered the ultimate shelter fabric for ultra-lighters. It does however come with a price...literally! DCF is roughly three times the cost of sil-nylon.

For the masses these materials are not. However, if one understands their limitations --and are willing to work with sil-nylon's idiosyncrasies (see 'dealing with sil-nylon' below)--, a well designed tent made of sil-nylon or DCF is to a serious lightweight traveler what a finely tuned piano is to Mozart's ears... particularly DCF.

Well designed and non-corporate USA made ultra-light tents

www.tarptent.com
www.sixmoondesigns.com

www.gossamergear.com
www.zpacks.com
www.mountainlaureldesigns.com

NOTE: Many tents do not come with sealed seams. The cottage gear makers will do this for you or, you can save your pennies and do it yourself. Click here to find out how.

A modified Zpacks DCF (.5 oz/yd) Hexamid with added front zippered door (dark areas, tied up in center pic), and 18" of perimeter screen. Room for me & gear. My breakdown is used as the pole & a DCF poncho is laid on top of the screen as the ground cloth/floor. Either side can be used as the door & the height can be adjusted depending on conditions. At a mere 9.5 oz, & another 3.5 oz for the groundcloth/poncho, this has been the ultimate shelter for my needs

Dealing with ultralight sil-nylon and Cuben Fiber shelters:

If a sil-nylon or DCF tent sounds like your thing, below are a few points to keep in mind... and a cure to one of the quirks of sil-nylon. With a little extra attention and some common sense, a well cared for ultralight tent will out last a carelessly handled tent made from traditional materials.

Caring for sil-nylon and DCF tents:

  • Before setting up, clear area of sharp objects including sticks, pine cones & rocks. This is particularly important where your body weight will be. Sand is good but makes for a mess being that silicone attracts it.
  • Though not necessary if following the above advice, providing additional floor protection isn't a bad idea for some of the lighter sil-nylons and cuben fibers. In lieu of a separate “ground cloth”, save weight and bulk by using something you’re already carrying (wetsuit, poncho, closed-cell sleeping mat) or, use what nature has provided (grass, moss, leaves, etc). All this adds insulation and cushioning too. Double duty! And don't worry about complete floor coverage. Focus on the area most susceptible; where your body weight will be concentrated.
  • Make sure to set up the tent far enough from branches that they can't rub against the material during a breeze.
  • When taking down, gently shake off excess moisture then hang dry for a few minutes on each side before packing.

To cure sil-nylons slipperiness:

  • To give your sleeping bag or pad something to grip to, you'll have to apply 100% silicone to the floor when the tent is set up (silicone is the only thing that'll adhere to sil-nylon). This can be done by applying the silicone from a caulking gun or squeeze tube in lines approx 6" apart and perpendicular to the length of your sleeping bag or in zigzags as shown in the photo to the right. It doesn't take much so keep the beads of silicone small and thin to save weight. I have found an area 2' x 4' per person to be sufficient. Another, and less visible method is to mix approximatly two parts silicone to three parts low-odor mineral spirits or Coleman fuel and paint it on solid or in lines.

Bivy bags
Though not the most enjoyable shelter to wait out a rain storm in, bivy bags can be effective shelters that require a fraction of space a tent takes up. This opens up a great deal more camping spots. A bare bones version that can keep you dry and protect you from biting bugs can weigh as little as 10 ounces and take up no more space than a Subway sandwich. Bivy bags can also minimize, or even eliminate cold drafts, and add several degrees warmth to your sleeping bag (10° extra is often stated but that is a wild stretch in practically every circumstance).

All this is great, unless you are claustrophobic. Most bivies are little more than oversized mummy sleeping bags and when battened down for a storm, offer little wiggle or breathing room. And unless you are a contortionist, dressing inside one is out of the question.

Here's my homemade sil-nylon/Gore-Tex bivy/tent. Bug proof; breathable; ample head room/ventilation; adjustable for protection in any weather condition; seam sealed; big enough vestibule to cook under if raining; set up using trees, sticks, bushes, breakdown paddle or packframe; 18 oz total wt; $70 in materials. With some of the newer materials available today, the weight of this design could easily be under 1 pound. If patient, building something like this is not terribly difficult. Prototype by making 3"=1' versions from old sheets. When happy w/ the design, draw scaled plans & build it!!

For tips on sewing, materials, etc, click here.

If shopping for a bivy, be aware that not all are meant to be used as stand-alone shelters. Many bivy users (backpackers for instance) purchase the type with a breathable water resistant fabric on top and use them in conjunction with a tarp or, inside snow caves or other shelters where only a little moisture is likely. However, if used in the open and it rains, a breathable "water resistant" (DWR) fabric is not going to keep the occupant dry. To be suitable for a stand-alone shelter, the bivy top needs to be a breathable waterproof fabric. Water resistant won't cut it. The head section also needs to be designed in such a manner that it sheds water away from that area while still being open enough for the occupant to breath without fabric lying on their face. As for the latter, some bivies have a loop sewn to the outside just over the head area in which a string can be fastened and tied to an overhead branch. This is a lightweight and simple approach. Others have a wire sewn in which can be bent in a multitude of angles to suit your needs. And then there are those with overhead poles. If you primary concern is keeping the lightest load possible, be careful here. Many assume these to be a good comprimise between tent and bivy. While these type of bivies have their place in certain environments (exposed ridges in extreme weather for example...almost never a concern for self-support kayakers), they often weigh as much or more than the tents mentioned above.

Tarps
Though tarps offer no bug protection and limited refuge from wind, they are popular with some. Finding one that’s lightweight can take some careful shopping though. By the time you include stakes, cord for tie downs and a ground cloth for your sleeping bag, this setup can easily outweigh a roomy sil-nylon or DCF tent that offers superior protection. On the other hand, if you do your homework, a well thought out tarp can make an inexpensive, light and compact rain shelter. And without a doubt, in rainy weather, a group tarp really shines as everyone can congr
egate and cook in comfort.

In a pinch, use 3-4 mil plastic sheeting for a tarp. No need for grommets. Just use sheetbend knots to tie the corners out and your throw rope for a ridgeline. Not durable but cheap & light.

What ever the application, with practice and some improvision with trees and paddles, tarps can be set up in a variety of ways to fit varying conditions...though it only takes a slight breeze to cause an annoyingly noisy flap. That's assuming a decent pitch. A tarp with a not-so-good pitch is prone to being blown over and/or damaged in even moderate winds.

WARNING: Do not cook under a tarp unless you’re using a small stove and the tarp is set up sufficiently high.

Bivy / Tarp combo
With the right pieces, and good camp selection skills, the bivy/tarp combo can be a good set-up which offers the freedoom of cowboy camping with rain and bug protection. Below is a stock DCF Zpacks Hexamid tarp combined with the roomy Six Moons Design Metero bivy. The tarp is held up with half a break-down paddle.

As with any tarp, the lack of wind protection can be mitigated by placing the shelter in an area naturally protected. Further protection in this case is added by attaching a poncho to the underside of the high section of the tarp and holding it to the ground with rocks. The kayak and drybags can also be used to block some wind. Still, these set-ups offer limited protection in stronger wind, particularly microbursts which can wreck havoc on the exposed tarp. Just as bad, the flapping material can keep the entire camp awake at night.

Not counting the break-down paddle, the above tarp/bivy combo shelter weighs in at a respectable 12 ounces.

General shelter tips/ideas

$4, 4 oz drop cloth shelter: "a" = your height + 18". "b" = your height + 30". Lie on narrow "a" (3') end & use as a groundsheet on clear nights. If it begins to rain, just fold the "b" (4') end over your body (leave an airspace to breath!!). The overlap keeps rain from pooling on the lower piece. The upper piece can be weighted down with your paddle or rocks. The head end can be elevated with the end of your boat or get fancy & tie it up like a tarp by using your throw rope and sheetbend knots in the plastic.
  • though the fiddle factor is high, a bit of weight can be saved by using sticks you find at camp instead of packing stakes
  • for a heinously light & ridiculously easy to make shelter that costs less than a 6 pack, try a 1 mil plastic drop cloth shelter (see diagram at right). It doesn't breathe or offer bug protection, nor is it durable. However, in a pinch, it'll keep you dryer than having no shelter at all.
  • a 3' square piece of 1 mil plastic sheeting makes a nice groundcloth outside your shelter door. Weighs less than 1 oz & can be used to keep your barefeet & other misc items out of the dirt. Your poncho can be used for the same thing if it's not needed for something else.
Need a groundcloth? In the photo above are two types: On the left is Tyvek home wrap made by Dupont and on the right, a shrink film window insulation kit. The Tyvek is versatile and strong. Scraps large enough for a groundcloth can often times be found free at construction sites too. The window insulation kit will yield two very large groundcloths for $8. At less than 2 oz for a generously sized groundcloth, it is less than half the weight of Tyvek, though not as durable. However, this window insulation is far stronger than it looks (resembles thick Saran wrap). It is gold for the careful person looking to save every last ounce! Find it at your local hardware store. If you can't find free Tyvek scraps, it can be purchased in small quantities at Zpacks.

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